Cookie-based auth/authz with CSRF; remove auth bypass

Replace the dev-only token shim with real authentication.

Backend:
- @fastify/cookie; JWT carried in an HttpOnly + SameSite=Strict cookie
  (parking_token), read from the cookie not the Authorization header.
- Double-submit CSRF: readable parking_csrf cookie + X-CSRF-Token header, both
  cross-checked against a csrf claim baked into the JWT; enforced on mutations.
- Routes: POST /api/auth/login (bcrypt, constant-time-ish), POST logout,
  GET me. requireRole now verifies the cookie + CSRF + role.
- seed-admin script (pnpm --filter @parking/server seed-admin) for the first
  admin; no bootstrap endpoint.
- Removed SETUP_AUTH_BYPASS and catalog.authBypass entirely; setup endpoints
  use the cookie admin guard like everything else.

Frontend:
- apiFetch wrapper: credentials:'include' + X-CSRF-Token on mutations.
- Login form; App gates on /api/auth/me and only shows setup to admins; logout.
- Wizard token field removed (auth is the session cookie).

Deploy:
- deploy/nginx.conf: prod reverse proxy, SPA + /api same-origin, TLS, so the
  Secure cookies work. Dev stays same-origin via the Vite proxy.

Verified (curl + browser): wrong pass -> 401; login sets cookies; me -> admin;
assign without CSRF -> 403, with -> 201; no cookie -> 401; session persists
across reload. wiki/local-jwt-auth updated.

pnpm-lock.yaml

@@ -20,6 +20,9 @@ importers:
 
   apps/server:
     dependencies:
+      '@fastify/cookie':
+        specifier: ^11.0.2
+        version: 11.0.2
       '@fastify/cors':
         specifier: 11.2.0
         version: 11.2.0
@@ -605,6 +608,9 @@ packages:
   '@fastify/ajv-compiler@4.0.5':
     resolution: {integrity: sha512-KoWKW+MhvfTRWL4qrhUwAAZoaChluo0m0vbiJlGMt2GXvL4LVPQEjt8kSpHI3IBq5Rez8fg+XeH3cneztq+C7A==}
 
+  '@fastify/cookie@11.0.2':
+    resolution: {integrity: sha512-GWdwdGlgJxyvNv+QcKiGNevSspMQXncjMZ1J8IvuDQk0jvkzgWWZFNC2En3s+nHndZBGV8IbLwOI/sxCZw/mzA==}
+
   '@fastify/cors@11.2.0':
     resolution: {integrity: sha512-LbLHBuSAdGdSFZYTLVA3+Ch2t+sA6nq3Ejc6XLAKiQ6ViS2qFnvicpj0htsx03FyYeLs04HfRNBsz/a8SvbcUw==}
 
@@ -1778,6 +1784,11 @@ snapshots:
       ajv-formats: 3.0.1(ajv@8.20.0)
       fast-uri: 3.1.2
 
+  '@fastify/cookie@11.0.2':
+    dependencies:
+      cookie: 1.1.1
+      fastify-plugin: 5.1.0
+
   '@fastify/cors@11.2.0':
     dependencies:
       fastify-plugin: 5.1.0